Length: 4.1 miles
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: moderate to very strenuous
I try to avoid out-and-back trails because I hate to see the same things twice. A loop trail is always my preference. From the Humpback Gap Overlook parking area on the Blue Ridge Parkway you can piece together a number of loop hikes of various distances, all of which will use the Appalachian Trail (AT) at some point. However, whatever you do, make sure you include a stop at the Humpback Rocks, for this offers one of the best views along the Parkway. Hiking to the Rocks is popular, but if putting up with the crowds is what you have to do, then so be it, because the view is worth the annoyance. For a list of all trails in the area, see the Humpback Rocks Hiking Trails web page here on National Park Planner.
The hike I chose is called the Humpback Rocks Loop Trail. The hike starts off on the trail to Humpback Rocks, turns north on the AT, then proceeds back to the parking lot via the Old Howardsville Turnpike, a dirt road that is no longer used. The hike to Humpback Rocks is extremely strenuous, not to mention technically difficult and potentially dangerous. Hiking poles will be a big help if you have them. You should not hike this trail in flip flops or sandals (hiking boots are ideal, but any athletic shoe will do). You should not hike this trail if you have a bad back, bad knees, or are completely out of shape. I also do not suggest hiking this trail with a baby strapped to your back, as it’s very easy to trip and fall. However, once beyond the Humpback Rocks and on the AT, the hike becomes much easier.
I’ve divided my trail report into two sections: the hike to Humpback Rocks for those who just want to see the view and head back to the car (99% of the people) and the Appalachian Trail segment of the hike.
Hike to Humpback Rocks
A trail bulletin board is located at the right side of the parking lot, and while there are trailheads at either end of the lot, the one you want is the one directly behind the bulletin board. If it’s a busy day, this is where most people will be heading.
A map of the loop hike is posted (photo of it above), so if you don’t have a printed copy but do have a cell phone or other camera, snap a photo of it so you can refer to it once you start hiking. It’s not a difficult trail to follow, with only two turns, but a map is always nice. You can also rely on the Blue Blazes that mark the trail. For those unfamiliar with the term, these are blue paint splotches on trees that you can follow like Hansel and Gretel breadcrumbs. In optimal circumstances, when standing at one blaze you can see the next, but this is rarely the case in real life. Just keep in mind that on this trail if you have hiked more than one minute without seeing a blaze, you may have missed a turn—there is one tricky section on the trail that fooled me. Once you get to the AT, the blazes are white and appear less frequently. Furthermore, if you ever see two blazes on one tree, that means a turn is coming up. It’s easy to get caught up day dreaming, talking to a friend, or looking at nature when hiking, but make an attempt to keep an eye out for the blazes.
The hike to Humpback Rocks is about 1 mile (one-way), mostly straight up. The first half mile is no exception, but at least the trail is relatively smooth, nothing like the rocky terrain that awaits you on the second half. The two different terrains are separated by a short, level area, which gives a reprieve from the uphill walk. Once you hit the second uphill climb, the trail not only becomes very strenuous, but also potentially dangerous. This area is extremely rocky, with staircases made of rocks, small rock fields that are the equivalent of walking on rubble, and large rocks that you have to step up onto and over. For those who haven’t hiked in such terrain, going up is the easy part. Coming down is when most accidents happen. Your knees take a pounding, and you must keep your eyes fixed to the ground as you plan two steps ahead. Come down on the side of a rock or in between two rocks and you have a sprang ankle. Take a spill and you may end up with a broken limb. However, the challenge is what makes this trail so much fun.
I realize that thousands of people hike to Humpback Rocks each year and that nearly all do so in tennis shoes and without hiking poles. I even saw a girl in what looked like ballet slippers and another in dress sandals. Most get to the top and make it back safely, but my bet is that nearly all of the people who sprang ankles and break limbs—and there are thousands of accidents each year, most minor—do this hike without the proper equipment. If you are serious about hiking, get yourself some good boots and good poles…and use them on this trail. I’m not just some old guy who can’t cut it any more, blowing the whole thing out of proportion. One young couple came by and the guy asked the girl, “How are you doing?” “Trying not to slip,” she replied. Immediately after that the guy slipped (luckily they were heading uphill). I saw older people coming down, and the look in their eyes was as if they had just found out they had two weeks to live.
As mentioned earlier, there is one point of confusion to be aware of. You will come face to face with a large boulder. To the right it appears as if the trail is blocked by trees, so surely that can’t be the way to go, especially since the trail to the left is clear and inviting. Well, there are no blue blazes to the left. The proper route is to the right, and you will see the blue blaze. What you can’t see is that the trail takes a sharp turn just before the fallen trees.
The turnoff to the Humpback Rocks is marked with a sign. You’ll know you are almost there prior to this because the steep trail will once again level off. It is an 800-foot walk to the rocks. When you get there, if it is a busy day, you may have to wait in line just to get onto the rocks. Expect hordes of people on them, some having a snack, most all taking photos with a cell phone. But the view is exceptional, and when you see it you’ll understand the hike’s popularity.
It took me about an hour to get to the rocks, but young people in tennis shoes and ballet slippers were flying by me, so figure 45 minutes for the typical hiker, plus however long you want to spend looking at Humpback Gap. If this is your final destination, turn around and head back down. The trip down will probably take the same amount of time. You will not pick up the pace just because you are going downhill, for trying not to sprang an ankle on the rocks will slow you down. The loop using the AT may have added two miles to the hike, but I feel I had the easier time getting back to my car.
The Appalachian Trail
When done at the Humpback Rocks, return to the main trail and follow the sign that says “Humpback Picnic Area.” I don’t know why this doesn’t say “Appalachian Trail” because that’s where you are actually heading. As mentioned, you won’t see many people at this point, and the ones you do see will look like true hikers (back packs, poles, boots), not tourists like the crowd at Humpback Rocks.
It’s about a 10-minute uphill hike along a much narrower trail to the intersection with the AT. You will see a sign as you approach, but you won’t be able to read it from the direction you are coming from. Once at the intersection, follow the directions to the “Humpback Rocks Parking / AT North,” which will have you taking a left. If you are hiking to the picnic area, continue straight. Remember, the blazes are white on the AT, and they are not marked as often as the blue blazes on the Humpback Rocks trail.
The AT is a breeze compared to the hike to Humpback Rocks. The trail is much smoother, though there are sections of smaller rocks here and there, and it gently slopes downhill for the majority of the time, heading uphill at a moderate incline only for the last quarter mile or so before you get to the turn for the parking lot. You can certainly increase your speed on this portion of the hike. You will be on the AT for about 2.5 miles.
At about the 3.9 mile mark is the intersection with the final segment of the hike, the Old Howardsville Turnpike that leads back to the parking lot (the turnpike actually continues straight while the AT breaks off to the right). The intersection is marked with a sign. This portion of the hike continues uphill at a moderate rate. At this point it’s less than ten minutes to the end.
Despite the strenuousness of the first part of the hike, I highly recommend the Humpback Rocks Loop Trail. The view is great, the difficult terrain actually adds to the fun, and if you haven’t been on the Appalachian Trail, you can now say that you have. The overall hike shouldn’t take much more than 3 hours.
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Last updated on November 20, 2023