Whether you are at the Assateague Island beaches in Virginia or Maryland, they can be divided into frontcountry and backcountry. A frontcounty beach is one that has parking areas close by, amenities such as restrooms and changing rooms, and lifeguards. This is where you will find 99% of the visitors. The frontcountry beach in the Virginia unit of Assateague Island National Seashore is located at the end of Beach Road (technically part of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge). The beach is quiet large, with the parking area running nearly three quarters of a mile alongside it, making it a very short walk from your car to the sand. There are portable toilets at various locations along the parking area.
On certain sections of the beach, lifeguards are on duty from 10 AM to 5 PM on Memorial Day Weekend and then starting daily from mid-June through the end of September. Look for the lifeguard stands and swim near them if this is a concern to you. The exact dates that the lifeguards are on duty change each year, so check the National Park Service’s official Beach and Surf Safety web page for Assateague Island National Seashore for the schedule. No rafts, body boards, surfboards, kayaks, canoes, or other flotation devices, except U. S. Coast Guard approved life jackets, are allowed on the beaches with lifeguards.
The backcountry beach begins at either end of the parking area. To the south is five miles of beach curving around Toms Cove Hook and ending at Fishing Point. Much of this beach is closed from March 15th through August 31st for bird nesting season.
The northern backcountry beach stretches for roughly 11 miles to the border with Maryland. No camping is allowed in the Virginia section of the park, so however far you decide to venture, you must return that same day unless you plan to keep walking to the State Line backcountry campsite in Maryland where camping is allowed (a 13-mile walk). You do need a permit, which you can get at the Toms Cove Visitor Center on a first come, first serve basis on the day of your departure. See the Backcountry Campsites web page for more information.
The Toms Cove area of Assateague Island is unique in a number of ways. First off, it is very narrow, making it just as easy to swim and sunbathe on the cove-side of the park. In fact, the cove is nearly as close to the parking lot as the Atlantic Ocean beaches. This is the perfect spot for those with toddlers and young children because the water is very shallow and calm like a lake with no waves to knock youngsters down. Kids can also explore the marsh grass areas found along parts of the shoreline. Crabs and other wildlife live in these grasses.
The island is gradually moving west. Storm waves from the east are often large enough to flow completely over the island, carrying sand from the eastern side and depositing it on the western side. As a result, you may encounter patches of marsh grass on the ocean beach that were dragged over from the cove side when the waves retreated back out to sea. I only saw this at Toms Cove due to the fact that it is the narrowest part of the island. The waves have a dramatic effect on the beaches of barrier islands, and this is also evident by the water-carved ledge at the high tide mark.
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Last updated on October 4, 2023