Highland Rim Map

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Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail

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Highland Rim is the northernmost segment of the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail (NST), and it is the only segment located in Tennessee (the rest are in Mississippi). At 20 miles in length, it is the second longest of the five NST trail segments. The NST brochure bills this as a perfect trail for horseback riding, which explains the two creek crossings I encountered that are nearly impossible to tackle on foot without getting wet (I did manage to get across on both occasions). Be sure you have waterproof hiking boots and, if possible, hiking poles if you attempt the route that I will describe shortly.

The southern trailhead for Highland Rim is located on Highway 50, which is just north of the Gordon House Historic Site at Mile Post 407.7 on the Natchez Trace Parkway. When coming to Highway 50 after exiting the Parkway, look for the sign that points the way to the parking lot. This lot is also referred to as the Shady Grove or Totty Lane parking area.

The northern trailhead is at the Garrison Creek Picnic Area stop located directly on the Parkway at MP 427.6. Here you will find a small picnic area, complete with grills, and a modern restroom facility.

For those with horses, trailer parking is available at both of the above mentioned parking lots. A third lot, the Fly Parking Area on Highway 7, is located towards the middle of the Highland Rim section at MP 415. When exiting the Natchez Trace Parkway, the ramp will circle back around to the highway. At the intersection take a left to get to the parking area. Signs point the way. This is the smallest of the three horse trailer parking lots.

I started my hike from the War of 1812 Memorial and Old Trace (MP 426.3) stop on the Parkway and hiked north to Garrison Creek. You can form a 3.75-mile loop between an original Natchez Trace segment and a modern hiking trail, both of which are considered part of the NST. The trail starts out on the Old Trace (aka original Trace), then splits about a quarter mile from the start. Since it is a loop hike you can go either way, but I stayed right on the Old Trace and proceeded in the counterclockwise direction.

War of 1812 Memorial and Old Trace to Garrison Creek loop

Original Trace segment starting at the War of 1812 Memorial parking lot

The first quarter mile of the Trace is as expected from a former National Road: wide, flat, and smooth, and keeping with the historical conditions of the trail, at times muddy. The trail is sunken, though not to the extent of the Old Trace segments at the southern end of the Parkway. By “sunken,” I am referring to the gully—up to ten feet deep in some places—that was worn into the ground by the thousands of men, horses, and wagons that traveled over the trail.

Sunken Trace

Strangely enough, once the trail splits the Old Trace becomes narrower and some sections are littered with small stones. Like stepping on a banana peel, the stones slip and slide under your feet. I hiked the trail in the fall, so the terrain was even more treacherous due to the fact that leaves covered the stones, so no telling where I was placing my feet. If you pay attention you will notice that the rocky terrain is usually located on the hillier sections of the trail. Over the years, rain water flowing down the hill has washed away the topsoil, exposing the rocks just under the surface. The level sections have a smooth terrain.

Rocky terrain found on hilly sections of the Trace

The trail splits again one mile into the hike. A left will take you off of the Old Trace and to a scenic overlook. Since my interest in the hike was walking the Trace, I stayed straight and cannot report on what you will see from the overlook.

As you approach Garrison Creek, you will find yourself hiking down a steep hill. If you look at the map, you will notice that the trail snakes back and forth at this point. This is actually a .3-mile switchback that makes the descent/ascent easier than hiking straight down the mountain. When you finally get to the bottom you will have hiked about 1.7 miles.

Final approach to the Garrison Creek parking area

To continue the loop you must hike to the other side of the Natchez Trace Parkway, and you have two options to get there (do not follow the sign to the “Scenic Overlook,” for you will just end up hiking back the way you came). The first is to walk to the end of the very large parking lot and circle back underneath the Parkway, thus eliminating the chance of getting hit by a car. The second option, which is a much shorter and direct route, involves crossing the Parkway. Being lazy, I took the shortest route. To do so, cut straight across the parking lot towards the Parkway bridge, scale the southern abutment, cross the Parkway, and scurry down the other side of the abutment.

Hike up the bridge abutment to get to the trail on the other side of the Parkway

When you get back onto the trail, you are almost immediately confronted with the first of two creek crossings. There is no bridge and the water is calf deep in most places, so crossing without getting wet takes some doing. Many people would turn around here, but not wanting to walk back the same way I came, I opted to cross … and spent the next twenty minutes contemplating how to do so. The sensible thing would be to remove my boots and socks and wade across, and this is exactly what I would do if it were summertime. However, it was a cold November day when I visited, so cold that ice had formed on some of the pooled sections of the creek. Getting wet was to be avoided if possible. I walked up and down the creek looking for a better spot, but as it turns out, the official crossing is the shallowest the creek gets. It is also quite narrow at this point. A spry, young person could probably get a running start and jump across, but at 50 years old I’d just end up splashing down in the middle.

First of two creek crossings

Of course, in the back of my mind was the realization that I had to cross the creek again farther down the trail, and no telling what that would entail. It is possible that even if I were to make it across here that I wouldn’t be able to cross farther downstream and would thus have to return, recross the creek, and hike back the way I came after all. I decided to try my luck. I started tossing loose stones into the creek to form my own stepping stones and crossed on these. The water came up to the tops of my boots, but did not spill over into the interior. Being waterproof, my feet stayed dry. This would not have been possible in lower cut shoes.

Once across, the trail hugs Garrison Creek, making it a very pleasant walk, though at times muddy. However, paradise comes to an end at the second creek crossing, which is about a half mile down from the first crossing. The water is again calf deep, but the creek is much wider here.

Second and more difficult creek crossing

I spent some time walking up and down the bank looking for a better place to cross and eventually found an ice coated log that other hikers had laid across the creek downstream from the official crossing. The log was no wider than a human foot, similar to a balance beam in gymnastics. There was also an old tire that I could step on just before reaching the other side, which came in handy when hoisting myself up the steep embankment. Keep in mind that a good rainstorm could wash away the log and tire. If you find this to be the case on your hike, there is no other way to get across short of wading in.

View once across the creek via an ice covered log and old tire

I made it across with only one foot dipping into the water, and that came when pulling myself up the riverbank. Again, my boot kept my foot dry. I suppose all of this makes the hike fun, but being winter I did not appreciate it as much as I would have during the summer.

The trail on the other side of the creek is a narrow foot path that proceeds uphill at a very moderate incline for much of the way back. The terrain is smooth and free of the loose stones found on the Old Trace, but if it has been raining it will be very muddy. You will eventually cross the Parkway, either by going over it or under it through a tunnel. The only reason to cross over the road is if the tunnel is full of water from a recent rain storm. From the tunnel it is a .75-mile walk back to the Old Trace and other quarter mile to the 1812 Memorial parking lot.

Tunnel under the Natchez Trace Parkway

Of the five hikes I did on the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail, this was definitely the most fun, though I highly suggest doing it in the summer. I have no idea as to the quality of the rest of the Highland Rim segment, but this loop trail is about as well marked and well maintained as you will find on the NST, plus it is very challenging, which is what hiking is all about.

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