Paddling in Dry Tortugas National Park

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Note: The term “kayak” is used to describe all paddled watercraft.

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PADDLING BASICS

Paddling at Dry Tortugas National Park is a lot of fun, but you need to realize exactly what you are getting into. First off, this is the open ocean, not a protected bay. On a calm day anyone can paddle the waters, but if the wind and waves kick up, you need advanced open-water paddling skills. The best chance for calm seas is in the summer, June through September. During this time there is no breeze, so the temperatures are usually in the 90s and the humidity is high, which makes for miserable camping. I visited in late February and the weather was perfect. Waves were mild and there were a number of people paddling, though a day like this is far from guaranteed in the winter months.

Secondly, you need a way to get your kayak to the park. If you are like the majority of visitors to Dry Tortugas National Park, you will be taking the Yankee Freedom Ferry. The ferry only has room for three kayaks per trip, and they must be under 17 feet long. There is an additional charge to the standard passenger fare. Kayaks spaces are only for those camping, not for day trippers.

For campers, bringing a kayak, if you have one, is a great idea. A multi-day camping trip to Dry Tortugas is a beach vacation that you cannot escape from. For me, there is only so much snorkeling and swimming and sunbathing and walking around a fort that I can take. Though I did not bring my kayak, it certainly would have added diversity to my activities and enhanced the enjoyment of my camping trip.

Once you arrive on Garden Key you must speak with a park Ranger before paddling. You will need a life jacket, a whistle, and a portable VHF radio in order to paddle within the park. A GPS device, first aid kit, and other survival equipment is suggested, but none of this is required.

The kayak launch on Garden Key is the dinghy beach located between the main boat dock and the old south coaling dock ruins. You pass this when arriving on the ferry. The coaling dock ruins look like a bunch of two-armed aliens marching out of the water. This is also a good place to snorkel, though you must swim to it from the beach.

Dinghy Beach on Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park

Pilings of the old south coaling dock at Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park

WHERE TO GO

Bush Key and Long Key are literally right next to Garden Key, and if sandbars form, all three islands become one land mass. Bush Key is closed from February through September, and Long Key is closed at all times, but you can paddle around them and get a good look at the birds that are nesting on the islands. Making a complete trip around Garden, Bush, and Long keys takes 1-2 hours, counting time to stop and look at the scenery.

The most adventurous trip is one to Loggerhead Key, a 3-mile one-way paddle across deep water. Loggerhead Key is open to the public, but all buildings are off limits, including the lighthouse (which you can see from Garden Key). There is a designated landing area, as well as a swimming area. When ashore, stay on the established trails.

If you plan to visit Loggerhead Key, you must note this at the time you get your boat permit because only two dozen people are allowed to visit the island each day (which I doubt happens often). Be sure to ask the Ranger for tips and to explain the rules involved with a trip to Loggerhead when you get your permit.

Paddling around Garden Key in Dry Tortugas National Park

About a mile to the west of Loggerhead Key is the Windjammer wreck. Part of the wreck actually breaks the surface, though it sits in about 20 feet of water. If you want to snorkel, you will need a dive flag. You can attach your kayak to a mooring buoy so it does not float away. Be sure you have a rope.

To the northeast of Garden Key is Hospital Key, and while you could easily make it out there, the island is closed, so all you can do is paddle around it. I’m not sure of the exact distance, but it’s not much more than 1.5 miles, one way. I don’t know if there is anything on it worth seeing, so ask a Ranger about this. Middle and East Keys are too far away for most people, plus they are both closed. Middle Key is underwater in the summer.

There is another wreck called Bird Key Wreck, and this is no more than a mile from Garden Key to the southwest. If snorkeling, you will need to put out a dive flag. The wreck is in six feet of water. If interested in paddling to it, ask a Ranger what is the best way to go because I believe Bird Key is now submerged and cannot be seen from Garden Key.

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